In the English language we are used to using the word truffle to refer to those sweet chocolates that were first spotted in a post-Revolution France. And when we hear the word tartufo we presume that someone means that delicious dessert of chocolate covering ice cream, covering ice cream, covering candied fruit.What a sweet tooth we Americans have!
In reality, when used in their country of origin both words usually refer to the fungus. If you want the sweet stuff you had better specify a chocolate truffle or a gelato tartufo otherwise you’ll be served something that grows near the roots of trees.
But don’t be disappointed! Your tongue might be be pleasantly surprised by the flavour and you become one of the newest fans of this tuber.
Due to their short seasons and the difficulty of harvesting them, truffles are among the most expensive food products in the world. No wonder they were once defined as “the diamond of the kitchen” by the French gourmet Jean Anthelme Brillat Savarin. When served in Europe the amount shaved onto a diner’s plate is usually weighed at the table before his/her eyes and then the price per kilogram is added to the final dinner bill.
The famous white truffle of Alba is held in high regard among truffle lovers. It has been known to sell for as much as $2000 – $3000 per pound. There is even a famous fair held in honor of this precious white truffle. The Fiera Internazionale Tartufo Bianco D’Alba is held annually in the region of Piemonte, not far from our native Piacenza.
In 2011, a couple of us were fortunate enough to be visiting our hometown of Cogno San Bassano, Farini in the province of Piacenza while tartufo was in season. A distant relative introduced us to his new pup that was still being trained for the hunting and gathering period. He enlightened us with a bit of information that we found extremely interesting. These dogs are descendants of past tartufo harvesters. Their mother is given some tartufo to taste while she is pregnant and also after birth when she is lactating so that her puppies are nursing from truffle-infused milk. They are bred with a craving for tartufo!
So the next time you have a craving for tartufo think twice before you order.